1.    Transfer the design from paper to copper using scriber. You can use carbon paper, or stencils to assist with transferring the design. Be sure to include in the design a 1/8” border around the entire piece. It is advisable not to make lines less than 1/16” in width.
2.    Thin resist to consistency of chocolate pudding with half/half pure turpentine and isopropyl alcohol
3.    Paint first coat of resist making sure it is not too thick, but that it covers the copper completely
4.    Heat the metal just enough to cause the resist to melt and the paintbrush marks to disappear. Be careful not to heat the resist so much that it bubbles. (I put it on top of the kiln and watch it carefully. It can happen in as little as 15 seconds if the heat is right. If the resist is heated too much – the rosin will leach out and give you ragged edges. It can be kept just warm (as opposed to hot) for much longer periods – this will speed up the hardening process.
5.    Leave the resist to set for at least 24 hours (and up to a week) before working it further
6.    After the resist has had time to harden slightly, take a scriber or other sharp tool and refine the lines carefully.
7.    After the lines are refined to your satisfaction – apply a piece of strong stiff tape to the back of the piece, and trim it fairly close (within ¼” to the edge of the copper
8.    Apply a second coat of resist being careful not to go over the scribed edges, and including the edges of the copper down to where it meets the tape
9.    Allow this coat to dry for an hour or two before applying one coat of pure asphaltum to the exposed tape, taking care to give a second coat to the edges (where the copper meets the tape)
10.    Allow a further one or two hours (up to a week or two) before putting the piece in the acid bath